Bikaner Unveiled: A 2-Day Journey Through Rajasthan's Hidden Heritage
Two Days, One Desert Gem - Unfloding Palaces, Temples, and Timeless Trails of Bikaner
Why Bikaner Deserves More Hype Than It Gets
When people think of Rajasthan, a few names immediately come to mind—Jaisalmer’s golden dunes, Jaipur’s royal palaces, Udaipur’s serene lakes, Jodhpur’s blue streets, and Pushkar’s spiritual charm. These are the places everyone talks about. But if you ask me, Bikaner deserves a place on this list too.
Most people know Bikaner for its namkeen and sweets, thanks to big names like Bikaji, Bikanerwala, and Bhikharam Chandmal. Others may think of the Karni Mata Temple, the famous rat temple that sparks curiosity. Bikaner rarely gets credit for anything beyond these things.
When I told people I was visiting Bikaner, their reactions were predictable. And honestly, I had the same expectations. But Bikaner took me by surprise. The city isn’t just about food and folklore—it’s about breathtaking palaces, intricate architecture, rich culture, and a royal legacy that feels more alive here than in many of Rajasthan’s more famous cities.
Let me take you on a two-day journey through Bikaner—where heritage whispers through narrow lanes, flavors dance on your tongue, and forts and bazaars echo with tales of time.
This isn’t just a trip—it’s a rhyme written across the desert. Come trace it with me.
Updated on: 14th, July 2025
Explored on: Dec' 2023
Table of Contents
How to get to Bikaner
Wondering how to reach Bikaner, the desert jewel of Rajasthan? Whether you're chasing sunsets on wheels, gliding in by train, or flying with the desert winds — getting to Bikaner is easier than you think.
By Road:
Bikaner lies around 330 kilometers northwest of Jaipur and is well-connected by road to Delhi, Jodhpur, and other major cities. The highways leading here are smooth, offering a pleasant drive through Rajasthan’s rustic countryside. Whether it’s a road trip from the capital or a detour from another royal city, the journey to Bikaner is as scenic as the destination.
By Train:
Bikaner is easily accessible by train from most parts of India, including Delhi, Jaipur, Jodhpur, and even smaller towns of Rajasthan. The city is served by two main railway stations—Bikaner Junction (right in the heart of the city) and Lalgarh Junction (just 6 km away). Trains to Bikaner offer a convenient and comfortable way to roll into royal Rajasthan.
By Air:
Flying into Bikaner is now simpler, thanks to the Nal Airport, just 15 km from the city center. Under the UDAN scheme, there are regular direct flights from Jaipur and Delhi. Alternatively, you can fly into Jodhpur Airport (251 km away) and enjoy a road trip across the desert plains to reach Bikaner.
Best Time to Visit
Winter (October to March)
The best time to visit Bikaner is in winter, from October to March. With cool weather and clear skies, it’s perfect for exploring forts, palaces, and temples. January also hosts the vibrant Camel Festival, adding a cultural spark to your desert escape.
Monsoon (July to September)
The monsoon brings light rain and cooler days, painting the desert in a softer hue. While travel may face some interruptions, it’s a peaceful time for those seeking a quieter experience.
Summer (April to June)
Summer in Bikaner sees soaring temperatures up to 46°C, making sightseeing tough. It’s best to avoid these months unless you're used to extreme heat.
Oh, Bikaner, a treasure untapped,
With stories woven, in time entrapped.
Your name rings with treats so sweet—
Bhujia crunchy, Rasgullas are a treat.
A desert land, yet hues so bright,
Bazaars that gleam in golden light.
Echoes of history, strong and tall,
Forts and havelis—grandeur calls.
Camels march with jewels rare,
Graceful strides through desert air.
Temples whisper tales of old,
Where even rats in faith behold.
With dune bashing to folk dances bright,
With mighty kings and hearts so light.
Oh, Bikaner, so bright, so true,
Forevermore, I cherish you!
Day 1 – Lose Yourselves in the Heart of the City
A day to immerse in Bikaner's royal soul—wandering through heritage-filled lanes, savoring iconic Bikaneri street food, tracing stories in ancient temples, exploring the majestic Junagarh Fort, and ending it in bazaars that buzz with color, craft, and the aroma of fresh bhujia.
Waking Up with Bikaner: A Sunrise Stroll to Rampuria Haveli
The first rays of the sun paint Bikaner in hues of gold, and that’s your cue to step out and explore. The city is still stretching awake, the air is crisp, and the bylanes hum with the soft echoes of morning life. This is the perfect time to visit the crown jewel of Bikaner—the Rampuria Haveli.
Tucked away in the narrow streets, this cluster of nine havelis stands as a testament to Bikaner’s royal grandeur. Built from rose-tinted Dulmera sandstone, the havelis carry the whispers of a bygone era—where intricate carvings, majestic facades, and exquisite frescoes tell stories of opulence and artistry. Every corner here is a photographer’s delight; a place where history and elegance intertwine effortlessly.
As the day unfolds, the lanes start bustling with locals and curious travelers, but in these early hours, you can wander undisturbed, soaking in the grandeur. You could easily spend two to three hours here, losing yourself in the mesmerizing details of the architecture and capturing frames that feel straight out of a fairytale.
For those who wish to live the legacy, Hotel Bhanwar Niwas, one of the Rampuria Havelis, offers an experience unlike any other. Run by the Rampuria family, this heritage hotel lets you step back in time, with its regal interiors and timeless charm. Staying here isn’t just about luxury—it’s about immersing yourself in the soul of Bikaner.
Exploring the grand Rampuria Haveli—a heritage gem of Rajasthan’s merchant era.
Rampuria Haveli—a marvel of architecture and artistic beauty in red sandstone.
A Heritage & Food Walk Through the Heart of Old Bikaner
After spending a delightful time soaking in the grandeur of Rampuriya Haveli, it's time to lose yourself in the maze-like lanes of old Bikaner. This isn’t just a walk—it’s an experience, a journey through the city's soul, where architectural heritage meets rich gastronomic flavors, and where every corner invites you to interact with the ever-welcoming people of Bikaner.
Start your heritage trail from Rampuriya Haveli, making your way toward Teliwara Chowk, then onward to Mawa Patti and Chai Patti. Each of these lanes whispers stories of the past, with stunning havelis standing as testaments to Bikaner’s glorious era. Pause to admire the intricate facades of Kothari Haveli and Sonawat Haveli, their artistry frozen in time.
As you reach Mawa Patti, the name itself teases your taste buds, and for good reason! Here, indulge in the rich, creamy Rabri at the legendary Manka Maharaj Rabri Wale. If your cravings demand something more, head to Birja Maharaj for a piping hot Samosa or a sweet, crispy Ghewar—each bite a celebration of flavor.
The trail then leads to another aptly named street—Chai Patti. The star attraction here? Juniya Maharaj Kachori Wale, where the famous Kachori with Pakoris offers a unique and mouthwatering combination. Not far from here, stop by Graduate Kanji Vada for a tangy, refreshing bowl of Kanji Vada, a perfect contrast to the richness of the previous treats. And for a sweet farewell to this culinary sojourn, indulge in the heavenly Kesariya Fini from Malchand Fini Wala—a dessert so delicate, it melts in your mouth, leaving behind a lingering taste of saffron and tradition.
With your soul enriched by heritage and your heart full of flavors, conclude this enchanting walk at the serene Laxmi Nath Temple.
Traditional Bikaneri haveli with arched doorways and wooden balconies.
Strolling past historic havelis in Bikaner — where heritage lives in every carved door and window.
Narrow alley lined with grand havelis in the old city of Bikaner.
A Spiritual Sojourn Through Bikaner’s Timeless Temples
As your heritage and food walk nears its end, the Shri Laxminath Temple stands as a serene retreat, offering a moment of quiet reflection amid the vibrant chaos of old Bikaner. Dedicated to Lord Vishnu and Goddess Laxmi, the temple houses a divine idol of the deities in an embrace. Crafted from pristine marble and red sandstone, the temple’s architecture radiates elegance, while the intricate silver artwork on its doorway adds a touch of ethereal beauty.
Not far from here lies another architectural marvel—Bhandasar Jain Temple, an ode to devotion and artistic excellence. Commissioned by Seth Bhanda Shah, a wealthy merchant. From the outside, its bi-chrome facade gives a sense of simplicity, but step inside, and a vibrant world of artistry unfolds. Almost every wall is adorned with exquisite paintings, narrating the lives of Tirthankaras, the wisdom of Acharyas, and depictions of Bikaner’s cityscapes. The walls whisper stories of Rajasthan’s iconic landmarks and revered Jain pilgrimage sites, all beautifully intertwined with intricate floral motifs.
Early morning outside Lakshminath Temple—capturing the calm of this ancient spiritual site.
Have a Lunch with a Rajasthani Thali
Before diving into the grandeur of Junagarh Fort, fuel up with the rich flavors of Rajasthan. A hearty Rajasthani Thali is the perfect way to begin your afternoon. On your way from the old city to the fort, you’ll find Jeeman — a lovely spot known for serving authentic local cuisine.
If you're looking for a meal with a view, Gallop’s sits just outside the fort, offering a charming glimpse of Junagarh’s majestic facade as you dine. For those already inside the fort complex, Prachina Café, tucked near the parking area, offers a relaxed vibe with great food and a picturesque outlook of the fort walls — a perfect pause before you explore history.
Delicious Rajasthani thali featuring dal baati churma, gatte ki sabzi, and more — a must-try in Rajasthan.
Whispers of Royalty: A Walk Through Junagarh Fort
After fueling up with some hearty Rajasthani cuisine, it’s time to digest it with a walk through one of Bikaner’s grandest attractions—Junagarh Fort, the jewel of the city. Spread across a vast complex, this architectural marvel will take you around 3–4 hours to explore in full. Inside, you’ll find an exquisite blend of palaces, temples, corridors, and museum —each corner echoing the legacy of the Bikaner rulers.
The fort is a treasure trove of art, history, and royal grandeur.
Your journey begins at Karan Mahal, an elegant garden palace built in 1680 by Maharaja Karan Singh to mark his victory over Aurangzeb. Its painted balconies, glass windows, and later additions of mirror and gold-red detailing make it a visual treat.
Next is Phool Mahal, the oldest palace in the fort, built in 1589. With its glass and stucco work, floral motifs, and royal charm, it reflects the artistic sensibilities of the Rathore era.
Anup Mahal, once the administrative hub, impresses with its Mughal-inspired audience hall, gold leaf ceilings, and intricate wood and marble work. It’s grand, regal, and unforgettable.
Phool Mahal — A symphony of color and craft in Bikaner’s regal past.
Step into Phool Mahal, where the walls still bloom with royalty.
Majestic view of Junagarh Fort, showcasing its grand sandstone architecture.
A quiet courtyard where royal footsteps once echoed beneath open skies.
An open courtyard framing the calm beauty of Chandra Mahal.
Anup Mahal — Where gold gleams and royal stories echo through time.
Make your way to Ganga Mahal, a 20th-century addition by Maharaja Ganga Singh. It houses the grand Ganga Singh Hall, now a museum showcasing Bikaner’s military and artistic heritage. You’ll find vintage weaponry, coins, paintings, and even a World War I biplane on display.
Chandra Mahal showcases royal luxury at its peak—gold-plated décor, mirrorwork, and gemstone-infused paintings. Smart mirror placements here once served as ancient surveillance for the royals.
Wrap up at Badal Mahal, or the Palace of Clouds, known for its rain-themed frescoes of Radha and Krishna, and paintings symbolizing devotion and endurance. A poetic end to a regal exploration.
Every corner of Junagarh Fort tells a story. With its exquisite palaces, detailed carvings, and timeless architecture, it’s not just a monument—it’s a royal experience waiting to unfold.
Stroll, Shop, and Savor
Keep your energy alive for a late evening stroll and shopping spree through the bustling and decorative markets of Bikaner. If you start feeling low, a bite of bhujia or a juicy rasgulla will instantly refresh you. Head to Kote Gate Bazaar, a lively street running parallel to the railway line. Kote Gate itself is one of the historic gateways to the old city of Bikaner.
I once read, “Bikaner is a city where one half of the population is busy making bhujia, and the other half is busy eating it.” That could feel more accurate when you're wandering through Kote Gate. This street is home to some of the most renowned bhujia brands like Bikaji, Bhikharam Chandmal, and Bishanlal Babulal—names that are synonymous with Bikaneri snacks.
But my personal favorite on this street? Mool Sa Phool Sa—a small paan (betel leaf) canopy that’s big on character. The man behind the counter is an Instagram moment himself, dressed in traditional Rajasthani attire with a colorful safa, a twirled moustache, and enough jewelry to rival a local prince. His paan? Absolutely divine. A trip to Bikaner truly feels incomplete without tasting one.
While you're at it, don’t forget to shop for some Nokha Rajai—those locally crafted quilts known for their warmth and lightness—or explore the variety of beautiful Rajasthani sarees on display.
Street view of Kote Gate Bazaar, lined with traditional shops and local crowds.
Bikaner isn't just a destination, it's an experience—and every flavor, fort, and face has a story to share.
Bikaner by night is quieter, but no less charming. Its stories stay with you—in the rustle of sarees, the chime of temple bells, and the crunch of that last bhujia bite.
Sleep well, for Day 2 brings curious turns—from rats in temples to sunsets in the dunes.
Day 2 – Chase the Unusual, Feel the Desert’s Soul
If Day 1 in Bikaner was a dance through palaces, havelis, and heritage-filled bazaars, then Day 2 is about chasing the unusual—where divine legends, royal memories, and desert winds create a rhythm of their own.
Today is about stories that don’t make it to postcards, but stay with you long after the journey ends. This isn’t your typical Rajasthan—it’s offbeat Bikaner, soulful and serene.
So come, let’s wander where tradition touches the surreal, and every stop writes a verse in the roaming rhyme of the desert.
Whispers of the Divine: Karni Mata Temple, Deshnok
Karni Mata Temple, Deshnok — Rajasthan’s iconic Rat Temple, home to thousands of sacred rats.
After breakfast, gear up for a 30 km drive south from Bikaner to the village of Deshnok—home to one of the world’s most unusual shrines: the Karni Mata Temple, famously known as the Rat Temple.
Dedicated to Karni Mata, a 14th-century mystic believed to be an incarnation of Goddess Durga, the temple houses over 20,000 sacred rats. These revered rodents—called kabbas—are considered incarnations of her devotees. Spotting a rare white rat is believed to bring great luck, and if one runs across your feet, consider it a blessing.
Surprisingly, even during historical plagues, Deshnok remained untouched. Devotees even regard food nibbled by the rats as prasad—a high honor to consume.
Deshnok’s lanes are lined with small, no-frill eateries—each serving a slice of Rajasthani warmth. If you’re hungry after the temple visit, pause here for lunch. I’d nudge you toward a plate of Ker Sangri, the desert’s own melody of wild berries and spice, or the comforting richness of Jodhpuri Gatta—a dish that tastes like tradition. No frills, just food with soul. The kind that lingers long after the last bite.
Stopover with the Ships of the Desert – NRCC, Bikaner
After exploring the mystical charm of Deshnok, it's time to head back towards Bikaner city. On the way back to Bikaner from Deshnok, a quick halt at the National Research Centre on Camel (NRCC) makes for a unique desert experience. Located near the Jorbeer area, this government-run camel breeding farm is one of Asia’s largest and offers a fascinating glimpse into Rajasthan’s most iconic animal.
Spread over 2,000 acres, NRCC is home to over 400 camels. Established in 1984, the centre focuses on breeding, training, and research—supporting not just the animals but also the local communities that rely on them.
Visitors can stroll through camel enclosures, watch calves at play, and explore a small museum that showcases the role of camels in desert life. The souvenir shop is worth a look too—think camel leather goods, bone art, and quirky keepsakes.
Before heading out, don’t miss a taste of camel milk ice cream or a chilled camel milk drink—it’s part of the experience.
Pro Tip: Plan your visit around 3 PM—this is when the herd returns from their daily desert stroll. Watching nearly 400 camels marching back is quite a sight!
Meet the camels of NRCC, Bikaner — exploring the ship of the desert in their natural habitat.
Echoes in Stone – Devi Kund Sagar
A peaceful moment with my toddler at Devi Kund Sagar — surrounded by marble chhatris of royal heritage.
Row of marble cenotaphs at Devi Kund Sagar — memorials of Bikaner’s kings and queens.
Before heading into the golden dunes of Raisar, take a moment to pause at Devi Kund Sagar—Bikaner’s royal crematory that quietly tells the story of a proud Rajput legacy.
Built to honour Rao Bikaji, the founder of Bikaner, and his royal lineage, Devi Kund is home to an array of cenotaphs, each more intricate than the next. These elegant structures—some carved from Dulmera red sandstone, others from gleaming white marble—stand as timeless tributes to the rulers who once shaped this desert kingdom.
Wander through the memorials and you’ll find engraved inscriptions, detailed floral motifs, and faded yet graceful portraits—each whispering tales of bravery, tradition, and regal life.
It’s a peaceful, reflective spot—beautifully offbeat and steeped in history. A perfect short stop for lovers of architecture, art, and quiet moments carved in stone.
Desert Dreams – Raisar Sand Dunes
From the silence of stone at Devi Kund to the shifting sands of Raisar, the journey takes a turn towards pure desert magic. Nestled near Bikaner City, Raisar Camp offers a slice of rustic Rajasthan wrapped in golden dunes and timeless charm.
The route itself is an experience—sandy trails leading past untouched countryside, remote villages, and sun-drenched dunes that shimmer in the distance. Along the way, turbaned locals pass by, their silhouettes striking against the vast open sky. Wildlife sightings add to the thrill—antelopes darting across the sand, blue bull, and chameleon, even the occasional desert foxes or jackals.
At the Camp, the Thar Desert opens up in full glory. Take a camel ride or hop onto a camel cart—each step introduces you to the slow, steady rhythm of the sand. You can also go for a jeep safari on the sand dunes, chasing adventure across golden waves.
Sunset whispers over Raisar dunes - Bikaner's charming twilight tunes.
Raisar dunes blush in sunset's hue - Bikaner's golden hush in every view.
Sitting by a traditional Rajasthani hut in Raisar dunes - living the desert calm of Bikaner.
A camel in colorful attire walking through the Raisar dunes at dusk.
As dusk settles in, the desert turns peaceful. Village life, herds of cattle, and the wild charm of Rajasthan’s flora and fauna surround you in every direction. But the real magic begins as you climb a sand dune, sit barefoot with your feet buried ankle-deep in warm sand, and watch the Sunset in Raisar. The sky turns shades of pink, orange, and red—painting memories you’ll never forget.
And when the sun says goodbye, the night comes alive. Folk music and dance, a gala dinner by the campfire, and the soft breeze of the desert make the moment unforgettable. Under the wide open sky, you don’t just visit Raisar—you feel it.
Raisar isn’t just a place. It’s a peaceful escape, a soulful journey into the heart of the Thar.
As the sands settle and the journey finds its end, Bikaner leaves behind more than footprints—it leaves echoes.
This two-day escape wasn’t just about places to visit in Bikaner—it was about moments that linger. The Junagarh Fort told tales in stone, while narrow lanes served up local Bikaneri food that danced on the tongue. Temples offered peace, bazaars overflowed with color, and the Raisar desert camp near Bikaner wrapped the day in golden stillness and soulful night songs.
If you’ve ever searched for offbeat destinations in Rajasthan, let Bikaner surprise you. It’s a place where camels and cenotaphs, bhujia and bhajans, sunsets and stories, all coexist under one sky. It may not always make the top-five Rajasthan list—but maybe that’s what makes it special.
Because here, travel is not just sightseeing. It’s a feeling. A rhythm.
A rhyme waiting to be traced—on every grain of sand, every whispering wall, every folk tune rising with the wind.
So, when you next plan a journey across Rajasthan’s cultural map, don’t just pass by Bikaner. Pause. Listen. Explore.
Let the Roaming Rhyme guide you through a city that doesn’t shout, but sings.
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